A getaway at Hilton Lac-Leamy & Casino du Lac-Leamy

The short version

The casino opened in 1996; five years later a Hilton hotel, a theatre and a conference centre joined it, and the whole Gatineau ensemble took the name Hôtel-Casino du Lac-Leamy. The Hilton has held five CITQ stars ever since, and a CAA/AAA Four Diamond rating from 2002. The casino is a Loto-Québec operation; the hotel flies the Hilton flag.

Which room to book

How many rooms? Tourisme Outaouais says 349; Bonjour Québec gives 312 plus 37 suites. A Classic room means two queen beds, a Deluxe one king bed with a vanity by the entrance. Executive guests get the top three floors, served by their own elevator and staff. Suite types are One-bedroom, Murphy and Junior. Every room has robes and slippers, Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries, a 47-inch screen, a small fridge and a safe, and, the hotel tells us, a view over Lac Leamy or Lac de la Carrière.

Rooms are ready at four; check-out is at eleven. In-room dining is available every day from 6:30 am until 10:30 pm.

Downtime: the best on our list

This is the reason spa people make the trip: pools and hot tubs both inside and out, every one heated, none closed for winter. Amerispa offers 17 treatment rooms; its Serenity package, two hours long, is $252 midweek (Monday–Thursday) and $308 at the weekend, and any treatment includes time in the steam bath, sauna, whirlpools and pools. The 24/7 gym is free.

At the tables

Downstairs you'll find a poker lounge, Mise-o-jeu sports betting, electronic terminals, 48 tables and upward of 1,400 slots. Monday to Thursday it closes only between five and nine in the morning; Friday to Sunday it never closes. You need to be 18 to enter in Québec, and staff may ask anyone who looks under 25 for photo ID.

Showtime

Nightlife comes in four flavours. Shows take place in the Théâtre du Casino, set out either in rows for 1,100 or around cabaret tables for 770; it's 18+ apart from special events. Bar 7 has DJs and live bands on Fridays and Saturdays from seven, with Latin music on Thursdays. Bacchus is for a quiet scotch by the fire, with a cigar room. And Aléa, the nightclub, runs 11 pm–3 am and enforces a dress code.

Eating in

For dinner with the lake below, reserve at Arôme — grilled meats and seafood, a three-course Experience menu, and brunch on Sundays. For smaller bills, Banco Bistro does steak, pizza and rotisserie; L'Instant has Montréal smoked meat, pasta and a smoked-meat poutine. TGV, the snack bar by the pool, stays shut until next summer.

Getting in and parking

Ottawa is close: around ten minutes' drive to the centre, with Parliament 6.4 km off, the ByWard Market 4.1 km and the skateway on the Rideau Canal 7.3 km; allow about 25 minutes to the airport. On public transit, take the STO Rapibus to its Lac-Leamy station. Parking outside costs nothing, the valet service is on hold until further notice, and there are EV chargers. Pets weighing up to 34 kg are welcome for a $50 fee.

The getaway verdict

The most restful casino hotel in Canada, and a lovely base for Ottawa. Go midweek for the spa (the weekend price jump is real) and save the tables for Friday night, when the casino stays open until morning.